Men Who Like to Travel - David Latt

If you lived in Providence when I did in the mid-1970s, you would never go back. In those days, the city was suffering the human equivalent of deep depression. Jobs were scarce. Downtown was dominated by the boarded up Biltmore Hotel and a grimy Amtrak station. If you wanted to eat out, your choices were pretty much restricted to Mafi-style Italian restaurants and food from diners like the Haven Bros. Diner in front of City Hall. All that has changed. Renamed the Renaissance City , Providence has been reborn. Downtown was revived by Buddy Cianci , the frequently indicted and much revered mayor of Providence, who convinced Amtrak to relocate so he could create a park in the center of the city. He tore up the streets that had paved over the Providence, Woonasquatucket, and Moshassuk Rivers and created a Venice-like system of canals that are used today by WaterFire (http://www.waterfire.org/), the summer festival that transforms the center of the city into a street fair of musi...

TO BE ADDED AT THE END So where do the big guys like to eat when they’re on the road? Butch eats ribs from old friend Ray “Red” Allen Gill’s Razorback, stopping by Red’s place in Arkansas and when they’re at events competing against one another. Peter and Roberta Rathmann of Nevada Barbeque Company: BJ’s--the only Sparks barbeque restaurant at the competition—-try small, family operations when they travel because they want to see what people like themselves are doing. Joe Alexander of Rasta Joe’s likes Corky’s in Memphis, Tennessee for the pulled pork and ribs. But surprisingly, what most cookers recommend isn’t what you’d think. Most agree with Bill Wall who says, “The honest truth is I don’t eat a lot of barbecue. I love to visit and see barbecue places [when he’s traveling]. But when I’m going out to eat, I like Caesar salads and shrimp, a good pasta or a great piece of meat.” Unlike Bill and the other cookers, I rarely get the chance to eat great ribs...

What comes to mind when someone mentions Houston? Don't think about it. Respond emotionally. Probably you said something that included "Texas, oil, Gulf Coast hurricanes, cowboys, barbecue, and Tex-Mex". Maybe you also remembered that Houston is home to an important complex of medical centers and that NASA's Johnson Space Center is nearby. Now add really good food to that list. Houston has come of age. Serving up plenty of hamburgers, barbecue, enchiladas, and carnitas, Houston's food scene stays connected with its Western traditions. But the food landscape now includes a range of restaurants serving the cuisines of Europe, the Middle East and Asia. There are plenty of upscale restaurants and many affordable, neighborhood joints. On a recent trip to Houston I took an eating tour of the town and I have some recommendations to pass along. If you have money to splurge, be sure you stop at Voice (Hotel Icon, 220 Main, Houston, Texas 77002; 832/667-4470...

When Albert Roux and his brother Michel arrived in London in the early-1960's their future was uncertain. They had a grand ambition to open a world-class restaurant specializing in high-quality, classic French cuisine in a country that famously preferred fish and chips. Le Gavroche was instantly recognized for the quality of its preparation and attention to detail and began a revolution in English cooking. Chef Albert Roux recently turned his attention to America when he opened Chez Roux on the grounds of La Torretta del Lago Res or t and Spa (http://latorrettadellagoresortandspa.com/), 600 La Torretta Blvd., Montgom e ry , T ex as 77356 (936/448-4400), on the edge of Lake Conroe , an hour north of Houston. He chose the location of the renovated La Torretta because o f his long friendship with the ow ner Ronnie Ben- Zur . Chez Roux specializes in a cuisine Chef Roux developed with his son, Michel Jr. , at Le Gavroche . Using sauces made with jus and reduc...